Voici la version 3 du prototype de truck de slalom de Chris Chaput (ABEC 11, Retro, Big Red X, et cie...).

Papounet, donne donc tes commentaires. Ça m'intéresse...

http://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20914&d=1161811791

Chris Chaput a écrit:

You can swap hangers without loosening the locknut that holds the bushings onto the hanger, so the "preload" doesn't change. You can ride my trucks without a top bushing, cup washer or locknut. You don't have to remove any kingpins to change bushings. You can use virtually ANY bushings. You'll never need to wedge your plates. You turn one locknut, and no matter how much you tighten your trucks, the intended angle never changes. Everything on the truck can be easily adjusted with a single standard skate key. It is simple and easy to use, and requires no learning curve. It's the most precise truck that I've ever ridden, the easiest to turn, and a tweaker's dream. It feels as if your always pumping downhill. The best selection of big bouncy bushings just comes with the territory. The Fyre 3 are fully functional machined prototypes, and can be raced. The Fyre 4 will be an expensive short run machined version that will serve mostly to get the trucks out there while we ramp up for production. The Fyre 5 trucks will be the highly affordabe production truck that will be every bit as precise as the machined versions, but will take longer for a release date. These will be less than half of the cost of Radikals and GOGs and PVDs, and even less than Splitfires. The basis of this truck is actually SIMPLICITY and ease of use. It goes without saying that they have to be precise, and turn well. None of these features are worth a darn unless the trucks are both affordable and available. I'm working on "available" first, and "affordable" second. The first set of hangers are 90mm wide and can be spaced to 100mm and 110mm. If their is a demand for more width, we could make a 110/120/130 or a 120/130/140 version. The version of the baseplate that you are seeing does NOT have adjustable steering angles. As a matter of fact, in all of these early versions I've made sure that that the geometry doesn't change. Unlike Radikals, Randals. Trackers, Indies, and GOGs, tightening the truck does not change the steering angle. My truck does not "hinge" in the pivot cup, and the bottom bushing does not act as both a fulcrum and a pivot point. What this means is that: 1. The two pivot points share the load and turn the truck at a precise steering angle. 2. The middle kingpin is NOT load bearing, and there is no need to use a harder/different bushings on the bottom. 3. There's no need for a spherical bearing in between the bushings, so I can have more urethane and less metal there. 4. I can use short, tall, narrow, wide, hard, soft, conical, barrel, spherical, and hourglass bushings top and/or bottom. 5. When you tighten the 9/16" locknut, the bottom bushing comes UP, while the top bushing goes down. There are MANY reasons why I don't like "universal" baseplates that try to give you a wide range of angles. Generally speaking, if it's good and strong and works well in one position, it's going to be weaker, out of position, and work differently in others. It drives the COST of the truck sky high. Generally speaking, once you know what angle truck you want on a board, you're going to "set it and forget it", which makes adjustability a feature that isn't used. My array of baseplates will allow you to choose 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, and 65 degree steering angle. Baseplates will be sold separately, so when you know what you want, you'll just get it. Unlike a Radikal, GOG or other expensive trucks, my baseplates don't have a spherical bearing pressed into them, no steel kinpin inserts, or expensive threaded kinpins that thread (argh) into the baseplate. Nor are there there any expensively machined adjustment systems. My baseplates are essentially chunks of aluminum with two kingpins and two locknuts. That's it. All other parts of the truck, including the middle kingpin, bushings and spherical bearings are attached to the hanger. This means that baseplates are cheap - you'll get a couple of hangers and get a BOATLOAD of baseplates for way less than you can buy a single set of machined trucks. The same hanger is used in the front and the back. You can use 45 to 65 degree plates in the front, and 20 to 35 degree plates in the back. Do I really need to make a 40 degree plate? Some whacko will want it. They are great trucks for BOTH ends of the board, so you never have use two completely different trucks front and rear. All axles are set to the same height, no matter which plates you use. When you want to swap your hangers onto another board, you loosen two 1/2" locknuts with your skate key, pull off the hanger, and along comes your kingpin, bushings, and spherical bearings, ready to slip onto the other board. Even your bushing tension is preserved! The trucks provide a GREAT way to get to learn more about steering angles and bushing systems - the HEART of smooth and precise steering. It allows you to know what you're doing, and to easily duplicate that setup, or make incremental changes. You won't need a degree in engineering or 3 years of slalom wrenching to put together a slalom board. I use mine with X-Bolts for mounting harware (yes the plates have old-school and new-school hole patterns) and Biltins on the axles. Nothing that works this well could be simpler. My skate-key is the only tool that I need at a race now. No washers, spacers, screwdrivers, allen wrenches, or odd sized fasteners. I'm WAY too lazy to be dickin' around with that kinda stuff. I'd rather spend my time skating! The kingin does NOT have a head on it. If it did, you'd crush the hanger down when tightening the locknut. The kingpin It is free to slide up (and even out) of the baseplate, but only when you want it to. Although you can't see it, there is a simple solution to getting the bottom bushing to come up at the same rate that the top bushing comes down. The result is uniform pressure on the bushing seat, with only one adjustment (the locknut). The only reason that I can think of to use different bushings top and bottom, is to "average" the type of compression. For example, if you have an 80a bushing and an 86a bushing, they'd feel similar to two 83a bushings. If you had a narrow bushing and a wide bushing, they'd feel like two medium bushings. This is where the art and voodoo comes into play. The good news is that you can throw just about ANY bushing in there, and they'll work. As a matter of fact, you don't even need a top bushing! It actually feels pretty good. If you have a tallish, widish, hardish bottom bushing, they're a bit like a PVD. And BTW, NOTHING is too simple.

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wow ca donne l impression d un excellent front truck

V'là les commentaires de Chris Barker sur les Fyre trucks:

Citation:

Since fall of 2003, I have rode nothing but Radikal front/rear combo. For ts and hybrid, I usually wedged the front 15 degrees for an effective angle of 60 degrees. Less than a week before Dixie Cup, Chaput sent me a pair of Fyres with 60 and 30 degree plates. The 60 was too much turn for me and I finally settled on a 50 degree plate. Mounted flat without risers, it works perfect with 70mm wheels. At full turn, it stops about 1/4"-3/8" from deck. About where I had my front Radikal. I found I was able to ride with less steering, harder bushings, and a longer wheelbase, yet the trucks worked better for me than Radikals. After 3 full seasons on Radikals, I wouldn't have rode them if I didn't think they could put me on the podium, and they did not disappoint at the Dixie Cup. I think in TS with smaller wheels, they may sit a little higher than I like. With the old Radikal rear, you could really lower the rear if you wanted. Still, I was amazed at how well the rear truck (which is the exact same hanger) worked. No slippage at maximum pumping. The Fyres are not to be ignored... You will see them on the podium again next season... cbark

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En espionnant j'ai trouvé ça, intéressant!

il y a une chose que je ne suis pas sur de comprendre, lors d'un virage, les deux kingpin ne vont-ils pas empecher le chamgement d'angle du hanger?

non parce qu'il y a des bearing sphéricaux sur les kingpin ce qui permet un mouvement de coté!

ahhhh c'est ça que javais pas vu

La version longboard qui est en vente présentement, seulement 100 exemplaires à $200 US le truck...

Chris Chaput a écrit:

A few more quick pics ... Fyre and Friends of Fyre The belly of the whale The load bearing pivot system without any resistance

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un seul commentaire : L'axe sa va plier !

Axe = titanium...

Les trucks de précisions abordables s'en viennent à la mode!

C'est quoi l'angle du baseplate de la version qu'il vend? Et à quoi ça sert de continuer l'axe au milieu?

Edit: je viens de voir 200$ LE truck... moins cool un peu!